Let them drop into the ground? Is it worth it? Thank you, Dianne. This is not our area of expertise, so with thanks to NDSU. There are three different groups of lilies when it comes to seed germination. Immediate seed germinators are fairly easy to propagate from seed. This group includes most of the commercially important species. Another group is the epigeal slow seed germinators.
These germinate slowly and erratically, but the procedures to propagate them are the same as for the immediate germinators. The hypogeoal slow seed germinators are very difficult to propagate. These seeds require three months of warm conditions, in which the root grows and a small bulblet is produced, followed by six weeks of cold treatment, and then another warm period, in which the leaves and stem begin to grow.
To propagate from seed, sow the seed in pots in the late winter or early spring in a cold frame. Seeds should be treated with a fungicide to prevent the fungal disease Botrytis. Within two to four weeks, the seed should germinate. Make sure to sow the seed thinly and use a fertile medium. When they reach their dormant stage, divide the young bulbs. Put two or three in each pot and grow them there for another year or more before planting them outdoors in their permanent places.
Always move the plants when they are dormant. You ask, is it worth it? But there is only one way to find out: Plant them! I have the same problem as Nancy.
The leaves, mainly at the top, are turning brown adn falling of. What can I do? Regards Norma. Different plants are forced for holidays throughout the year and sold in different parts of the country. If you still have it, plant it in the ground—not for a flower this year, but maybe for next.
The success of transplanted forced plants is unpredictable: some thrive, some never quite regain their holiday beauty. Hi, Melissa. You should apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch. We purchased beautiful white lilies at Christmas, and planted them in a pot. They bloomed through the holidays, and now the leaves and stalks are brown. What to we need to do to keep them alive so they will bloom again next winter? Thank you, Nancy.
The lily was probably forced to bloom for the holiday; different plants are forced for holidays throughout the year. The success of transplanted forced plants is unpredictable: some thrive, some never quite regain their oliday beauty. Skip to main content.
You are here Gardening » Growing Guides. How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Lilies. By Catherine Boeckmann. Lily Oriental Colorado Longfield Gardens. When to Plant Lilies In most regions, plant lily bulbs in the fall, at least four weeks prior to your first fall frost date. Bulbs planted in the autumn will have well established roots in the spring. The bulbs benefit from a winter chill to produce big blooms. In areas with particularly harsh winters, consider planting in the spring instead.
Plant as soon as the threat of frost has passed. Container-grown lily plants can be planted anytime during the early summer. Buy the bulbs close to planting time. Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the overlapping scales on the lily bulb may cause rot, so a well-drained site is essential.
Lilies need lots of sun. Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils e.
Fall is the ideal time to plant "Stargazer" lilies in the ground. If the weather turns nasty in the fall before you can get your lilies in the ground, you can wait until spring to plant them.
If your soil forms a solid ball or drizzles mud when squeezed, it is too wet to be worked. Before planting, loosen the soil to a depth of 12 inches. If transplanting, wait until the foliage has turned yellow before uprooting the plants. This allows the foliage to provide energy to the bulb and leads to a stronger plant the following year. Look out for them on any early flowering fritillaries including Fritillaria imperialis before your lilies emerge. Slugs and snails will feast on lilies, especially the young growth — a protective layer of sharp grit will deter them, as will wildlife friendly slug pellets, or a regular night patrol to remove them.
Vine weevils can kill lilies by eating the roots and the base of the bulb. If you tug gently on the stem and it comes up in your hand you may have an infestation. Check your plants by torchlight at night when the grey-brown adults will be silhouetted on the leaf edges and pick them off. Alternatively, use a biological vine weevil killer. A fungal disease that causes oval brown spots on the leaves. This can spread and destroy the leaves. Collect and destroy any affected part of the plant and dispose of it before it falls to the ground and spreads the infection.
Basal rot is a fungal infection that can cause the roots and the base of the bulb to rot. Dig up and destroy any affected lilies and do not replant lilies in the same spot as the fungus can continue to lurk in the soil. It could be lily beetles; a bad infestation can destroy a plant.
Or it could be vine weevils - if you tug gently on the stem and it comes up in your hand you may have vine weevils eating the roots and base of the bulb. Lilies are thirsty plants — make sure you water regularly while they are growing and flowering but avoid overwatering. Vine weevils will kill the plant by eating the roots and base of the bulb, rodents can be a problem and a hungry deer or rabbit will nibble anything!
It could be a fungal disease called Lily disease - oval brown spots appear on the leaves and can spread and ultimately kill them. The bulbs may have dried out before or after planting. Bulbs should be plump and fleshy when you plant them. Yes, especially to cats. Outdoors they should be grown out of reach of pets and when used indoors as cut flowers they should have their stamens removed as the pollen is highly toxic for cats.
Yes, the bulbs will reappear year after year if given the right care. If they are happy in their position they can multiply and spread, so you can get a nice clump developing that will produce blooms year after year with very little effort. Should I soak dahlia tubers before planting? Before planting, soak tubers in a bucket of tepid water for an hour so they can fully rehydrate. Starting off your dahlia tubers in pots will also encourage them to develop more quickly, so they're likely to start flowering earlier.
What happens if you plant bulbs too early? Ideally, bulbs should be planted at least six weeks before hard, ground-freezing frost can be expected in your area. The bulbs need time to root and establish themselves. On the other hand, planting bulbs too early can lead to fungus or disease problems. Do dahlias multiply? The usual way to multiply a dahlia is to divide the tuberous roots after winter storage.
If the supplier will ship tubers at least two months before your planting date, you can do it. It's a great way to get five or six plants from a single tuber-immediately, before the season even starts. Are daylilies a bulb? Daylily roots - not bulbs As all good gardeners know, daylilies don't grow from bulbs like true lilies and other famous bulb flowers like daffodils and tulips.
These unique root systems hold so much moisture and nutrients, the plants can survive out of the ground for weeks, as our wagon train ancestors learned.
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